UNION SQUARE. Laurent Tourondel's culinary caper (the B stands for "Bistro") in the Flatiron District has really caught on with the cool crowd. Set on the third level of a restored townhouse this upscale seafooder features suede covered walls, walnut tables, bone china and (most notably) a retractable roof. Fresh fish and shellfish, presented at the table, include Chilean turbot, South Pacific swordfish and Tourondel's signature Cantonese red snapper. For more terrene palates, there is a seasonal meat or fowl dish. The more casual first-level (the Fish Shack) recalls a New England fish house and features ditties like fish & chips and clam chowder. TRAIN: 4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R, W to Union Square-14th St

<i><b>BLT Fish</b></i>&nbsp;&nbsp;Mon-Thu 5:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11:30pm <i><b>BLT Fish Shack</b></i>&nbsp;&nbsp;Mon-Thu 11:45am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm; Fri 11:45am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm; Sat 5:30pm-11:30pm; Sun 5pm-10pm

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