WEST VILLAGE. Charm and romance exude from the redbrick walls and weathered timbers of this West Village keeper. Yes, A.O.C. Bedford is a terrific place to take that someone special, and guests can rest assured that every nuance is impeccably handled. The French regulatory term "Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée" is granted only to high-quality products (Spain and Italy employ comparable designations); here, this translates into superbly done dishes like free-range lamb with herb crust, suckling pig with braised endive, and paella marinera. The selection of reds and whites, too, is impressive. B.Y.O.B. on Sundays. Three-course prix fixe: $32. TRAIN: A, E, C, B, D, F to W 4th St; 1, 9 to Houston St

MIDTOWN WEST. When Alain Ducasse opened his much-anticipated restaurant in Midtown, he did so to much fanfare and media attention. He did not disappoint. Each dining area is exquisitely decorated, with artwork and antiques from the owner's private collection. Guests are presented with a veritable parade of decadence ­ a wax-sealed wine list, white-gloved servers and a meal worth every cent of its hefty price-tag. Featured entrées on the prix fixe menu may include anything from breast of squab or duckling wrapped in fig leaves to spinach-wrapped lobster or lamb roast breaded with dried fruit. When the smoke clears, you sign your bill using the Montblanc pen of your choice. As can be expected, you'll want to save room for dessert. Reservations are necessary. Prix fixe menus: 3-course $150, 4 course $185; tasting menu $265. TRAIN: 1, 2, 3, 9 to 59th St-Columbus Cr

FLATIRON DISTRICT. Bolo is the hip place to be for lunch or dinner. The stylish atmosphere is fun, lively and offers up Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine. This rare gem's décor is warm, bright and energetic which means the table talk requires you to speak up a bit. The food is scrumptious and the wait may be long, call ahead for reservations or try to catch a seat at the bar. TRAIN: N, R, 6 to 23rd St

BROOKLYN. The block between Bergen and St. Marks hides one of the best reasons to venture across the bridge to Park Slope, for it's there that you'll find one of the borough's more rewarding culinary surprises ­ Convivium Osteria. A fun, open place to gather and savor fine wine and good times, this Mediterranean-inspired restaurant also gets the nod for its superb Italian, Spanish and Portuguese dishes. The large wooden tables and brilliant appetizers are just the right ingredients for sharing dishes with good friends. TRAIN: 2, 3 to Bergen St

WEST VILLAGE. Yes, the wine list is enormous; as a rule, they stock enough to give everybody in Dover, DE a bottle ... actually, make that two. The decor is tastefully stylish, with the chocolate-stained furniture posing a nice complement to the cream-hued walls. The food, of course, truly cements the place's name among the Village elite, thanks to superbly done dishes like capon breast with baked chestnut ricotta, Johnson cod with German potato salad, and European turbot with parsley root purée. Tasting Menu: $125, w/wine $215. Three-course prix fixe: $74. TRAIN: N, R to 8th St; A, C, E, F, V to W 4th St