GRAMERCY. This Laurent Tourondel bistro celebrates the quintessential American steakhouse, and flavors it with the award-winning chef's own sense of panache. Make no mistake: If there's one thing this place knows it's meat, and you'll see plenty of it if you take a peak in the on-site aging room, where USDA Prime beef sits alongside premium cuts of veal and lamb. Like Tourondel's Fish and Steak editions, Prime boasts a design that seems tailor-made for its particular brand of fare: earthy browns and tans, high ceilings, an open kitchen and bistro-style chalkboard menu. TRAIN: N, R, W, 6 to 23rd St

MIDTOWN EAST. One feels a subtle harmony while walking from the zinc-covered bar to the suave dining room, where black tables and comfortable banquettes complement the pleasant walnuts, caramels and creams comprising the color scheme. No, this is not your father's steakhouse. Laurent Tourondel's culinary mastery shines through in the certified Angus steaks (each of them accompanied by a sauce of your choosing). If steak isn't your thing, broiled Maine lobster, grilled tuna and spiced swordfish are available. Served in petite cast-iron pans, side dishes are à la carte. NB The complimentary cheese popovers served at the beginning of every meal are, in a word, sinful. TRAIN: 4, 5, 6, N, R, W to 59th St-Lexington Ave

MIDTOWN WEST. Sporting a clubby, lodge-like decor, this Midtown steak place draws meat lovers, including both tourists and suit types. Beef is key to the menu, as it includes a variety of cuts ­ tenderloin, sirloin, porterhouse, T-bone, etc. A number of chicken and seafood dishes feature as well, and the big (3-10lbs) lobsters get raves. Heaping helpings satisfy hefty appetites, and the wine list includes a variety of California reds and chardonnays. Reservations accepted; casual dress appropriate. TRAIN: B, D, F, Q to 47-50th Sts-Rockefeller Ctr; N, R to 49th St; 1,9 to 50th St

MIDTOWN EAST. A great place to bring the family for a traditional steak dinner. In the neighborhood since the late 1800s, this establishment is rock solid and boasts a casual atmosphere conducive to friendly get-togethers and weekend dining. Billy's menu features such noteworthy entrées as shepard's pie and lamb stew, and the coleslaw here is the stuff of legend. Speaking of which, it's not uncommon to see one or two celebs enjoying one of Billy's great steaks. Reservations are suggested. Casual or dressy attire appropriate. TRAIN: 6 at 51st St; E, F at Lexington Ave

MIDTOWN EAST. Bobby Van's boasts a lively happy hour and a popular bar that entices guests to stay well after they've finished eating. Enjoy delicious, traditional steakhouse eats in an open, airy environment with plenty of windows for people watching and sunlight. Steaks are the main draw of course, but there are plenty of other options on the menu, including a number of seafood dishes. Reservations are suggested. TRAIN: S, 4, 5, 6, 7 to 42nd St-Grand Central